POOL WATER ISSUES

Problem	Creative Agent	Response
Cloudy Water	Poor Circulation/Filtrations	Cloudy water is most often caused by inadequate circulation/filtration, either signifying that the daily filter run is not long enough or the filter itself is dirty. To resolve, extend the daily filtration cycle and/or clean the filter with Filter Cleaner Degreaser.
	Improper Water Balance	If your water appears cloudy and the traditional clarifying methods do not seem to clear it up, test your total alkalinity and pH levels. High readings of either can cause cloudy water. Follow the directions on your test kit or see you professional pool dealer to make any necessary adjustments.
	Swimmer Waste	Body oils, perspiration, suntan oil and other swimmer wastes can cause cloudiness. Shocking the pool water with 1 lb of Breakout, or 1 ½ lb of Breakout 35, or Quick Clear per 10,000 gallons will break up and remove these wastes.
	High Total Dissolved Solids (TDS), Calcium Hardness (CH), or Cyanuric Acid Levels	Test your pool water to be sure the TDS, CH, and Cyanuric Acid levels are within the acceptable ranges. (You may have to bring your water to your professional pool dealer for accurate testing.) If any one of these factors is too high, drain up to ½ of the pool water and replace with fresh water low in TDS and CH.
	Chemical Residue	Calcium hypochlorite chemicals, such as HTH, leave behind chemical residues because they don’t dissolve out completely. If you are using calcium hypochlorite as your sanitizer, consider switching to a 100% soluble stabilized chlorinating product such as Omni Stabilized Chlorinating Granules, Tablets, or Sticks.
Algae Growth	Green Algae	If treated quickly, green algae is relatively easy to kill, being a free floating algae. Shock the pool in the evening with 1 lb of Breakout per 10,000 gallons. The next morning, add a concentrated multi-purpose algaecide such as Algaecide 60 at a rate of 1 qt per 10,000 gallons. Keep the filter system operating throughout the elimination process and brush any dead algae that settles onto the floor of your pool into the main drain for removal. If green algae is left untreated, surface attachment can occur making treatment very difficult.
	Blue-Green Algae “Black Algae”	Blue-green algae is a very hardy, difficult to kill algae that grows as small black dots or patches on the walls and bottom of improperly treated pools. Killing “black algae” takes time and persistence. Brush all affected areas well, using a stainless steel bristle brush for plaster pools. Brushing is the only way to remove the algae’s protective covering to make it susceptible to chemical treatment. Shock the pool in the evening with 2 lbs of Breakout per 10,000 gallons. The next morning add a concentrated multi-purpose algaecide such as Algaecide 60 at a rate of 1 qt per 10,000 gallons. Continue brushing the algae affected areas following the chemical treatment until the algae is gone.
	Mustard Algae	Mustard algae is another hard to kill variety frequently found growing on the shaded side of the pool. Mustard algae is usually yellow or yellowish brown in color and is easily brushed off the walls of the pool. Treat mustard algae with the same procedure as “black” algae. Brush the visible algae areas, shock at night, and treat with Mustard Master the following morning. Both the “black” and mustard algae are very resistant to chemical treatment, so more than one application may be necessary.
Colored Water	Clear Green Water	Clear green water indicates a presence of copper or iron in the pool water. First, bring a water sample to your professional pool dealer to test the levels. Then, to treat, add a chelating agent such as Stain and Scale Control at a rate of 1 qt per 10,000 gallons for every 1ppm of copper or iron. Chelating agents attract and combine metals so they can be filtered out. Run your filtration system and do not allow your sanitizer level above 1.0 ppm for 72 hours after the addition of the chelating agent. You also should check and adjust if necessary, your pH and total alkalinity levels. If the pool water is too acidic, the equipment will deteriorate and in turn, put more metals into the water defeating the purpose of using a chelating agent.
	Cloudy Green Water	Mustard algae is another hard to kill variety frequently found growing on the shaded side of the pool. Mustard algae is usually yellow or yellowish brown in color and is easily brushed off the walls of the pool. Treat mustard algae with the same procedure as “black” algae. Brush the visible algae areas, shock at night, and treat with Mustard Master the following morning. Both the “black” and mustard algae are very resistant to chemical treatment, so more than one application may be necessary.
	Reddish Brown Water	This is caused by iron. Iron is a precipitate of minerals in the water (alkalinity, calcium) that are allowed to build up and corrode light fixtures, ladders, rails, and even plumbing. Test and adjust the pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness levels, then add a chelating agent to the pool water.
	Grayish Black Water	Manganese or other heavy metals, including silver cause the water to appear greyish black. Test and adjust as necessary, the pH, alkalinity and calcium levels, followed by a chelating agent treatment. Remember, the precipitated metal might have also come from another chemical product you have used for algae control.
Stains	Metals Precipitating Out Of Solution	Out Of Solution Most stains are caused by metals plating out on the pool surfaces. New stains can usually be removed by first adding 2 lbs of Pool Stain Treat per 10,000 gallons and second, brushing the stains vigorously. Older stains on a plaster pool may require acid washing. Ask your dealer for suggestions.
Scale	Calcium Hardness Level is Too High	Scale is a build up of calcium carbonate precipitated out of water by evaporation or heat. It can form on pool walls, inside pipes, heat exchangers, and other pool equipment. Of course, excessive amounts of calcium need to be in the water in the first place for this formation to occur. If your pool water has a high calcium hardness level, replace up to ½ of the volume of the pool with water low in calcium. If the source water is high in calcium, initially treat water with 1 qt. Of Stain and Scale Control per 10,000 gallons, keep pH between 7.2 and 7.4 and add a 4 oz per 10,000 gallons maintenance dose of Stain and Scale Control once a month.
Rough Plaster	Calcium Hardness Level is Too Low	If the plaster surface in your pool begins to get rough, it is a sure sign that your calcium hardness is too low. The pool water must have a calcium hardness level of at least a 225ppm. If the calcium hardness is not properly balanced out, calcium will actually be pulled from the plaster (causing roughness) to satisfy the demand for it. Maintaining a calcium hardness level between 225 and 300 ppm will avoid this problem
Foaming	Overuse Of Some Types Of Algaecides	To treat, use ¼ qt Defoamer per 10,000 gallons to first eliminate the foaming problem. Then switch to a non-foaming algaecide such as Algaecide 60 to prevent future foaming.
Foaming	Excessive Build-up Of Suntan Oils, Soap Residues or Other Contaminants	When your filter becomes too dirty, it can no longer effective remove bather wastes from the pool water. The solution is to clean your filter with Tri-Sodium Phosphate (TSP) or Filter Cleaner Degreaser and shock the pool water with 1 lb Of Breakout or 1 ½ lbs of Breakout 35 or Quick Clear per 10,000 gallons.
Eye Or Skin Irritation	High Levels Of Chloramines	Chloramines are unwanted chemical compounds formed when free chlorine molecules combine with bather wastes such as body oils, hair oils, perspiration, etc., etc. When the pool’s free, available chlorine is insufficient to oxidize the chloramines, you will have the characteristic chlorine odor and eye or skin irritation complaints. To destroy the chloramines, shock with 1 lb of Breakout per 10,000 gallons or follow your chlorine manufacturer’s instructions for super-chlorination.
Colored Hair, Nails, Or Skin	Nails, Or Skin High Levels Of Chloramines	Chloramines, when in high enough levels can cause skin, hair and nails to become discolored. The most susceptible are light-skinned, blonde haired (natural or dyed) persons. Again, to destroy the chloramines, shock with 1 lb of Breakout per 10,000 gallons or follow your chlorine manufacturer’s instructions for super-chlorination.
Bromine or Chlorine Levels Are Low or Nonexistent	Excess Organic Wastes – Sanitizer Demand Is Not Being Met	Sanitizer demand can be defined as the amount of any chlorine or bromine product needed to kill all the bacteria and absorb all the foreign matter present in a body of water. If this demand has not been met, there is not enough sanitizer residual left in the water. (Sanitizer residual is the amount of chlorine or bromine that is left over after the demand has been satisfied.) The sanitizer residual level is what is tested for in the pool. To satisfy the demand and establish a residual, you must superchlorinate with 2 lbs of Breakout per 10,000 gallons, then continue with your regular sanitizer schedule.
	Chlorine Or Bromine Level Is Too High	If your sanitizer level is too high it can actually bleach out the testing powder or solution leading you to believe that there is no residual in the water. Dilute the test water with 50% tap water and retest. If your test kit then registers a sanitizer level, multiply that level by 2 to get the actual reading. Then see your professional pool dealer for suggestions.
	Chlorinator Or Brominator Is Not Functioning Properly	To work properly, your Chlorinator or Brominator must contain chemicals and must allow sufficient water flow. Check to be sure that your feeder isn’t plugged or empty. Since most feeders operate only when the pump is running, you must be sure to operate the pump and feeder for at least 8 hours per day. Operate for a longer period of time if this is not sufficient.
	Inactive Or Old Test Kit Reagents	For optimum results, be sure to replace your reagents at the beginning of each pool season.
	Low Cyanuric Acid Level	In chlorinated pools, a cyanuric acid or stabilizer level below 25 ppm can make it very difficult to maintain the proper chlorine level due to the dissipation effect of sunlight on unstablized chlorine. To resolve, first be sure you are using a stabilized form of chlorine such as Omni Stabilized Chlorinating Granules, Tablets or Sticks. Second test you cyanuric acid level at the beginning and middle of each season and add stabilizer as needed to initiate and maintain a 40 to 80 ppm level of cyanuric acid.
Excessive Chlorine Or Bromine Usage	Pool Water Is Out Of Balance	Most residential pools should use from 1 to 2 lbs of Omni Stabilized Chlorine or 1 to 3 lbs of Omni Bromine Tablets per 10,000 gallons each week. These numbers are guidelines – the actual usage rate may vary due to bather load and weather conditions. If the pool water is out of balance, it can use more sanitizer than is necessary. Test your water to be sure the pH is between 7.4 and 7.8, with the total alkalinity at least 80 ppm.
	High Levels Of Organic Wastes	If there are high levels of organic wastes (body oils, algae, etc) in the pool it will create a large sanitizer demand. If either of these conditions exist, shock your pool with 1lb of Breakout or 1 ½ lbs of Breakout 35 or Quick Clear.
	Improper Chlorinator or Brominator Operation.	Check to make sure that the feed rate on the chemical feeder is set at the proper level for your pool size and bather load. If it is set too high, the sanitizer level can increase dramatically. If so, adjust accordingly.
Odors	Chlorine Odors – High Chloramine Levels	Chloramines are unwanted chemical compounds formed when free chlorine molecules combine with bather wastes such as body oils, hair oils, perspiration, etc., etc. When the pool’s free, available chlorine is insufficient to oxidize the chloramines, you will have the characteristic chlorine odor. To resolve, shock the pool with 1 lb of Breakout or 1 ½ lbs or Breakout 35 or Quick Clear.
	Musty Odors	Algae growth or high bacteria levels can lead to a musty, moldy smell. The solution is to eliminate the algae (see section on algae) and shock the water with 1 lb of Breakout or 1 ½ lbs or Breakout 35 or Quick Clear to kill any bacteria.
	Mildew Odors	A smell that is closer to mildew might, in fact be mildew on pool covers or in deck crevices where water has been standing for long periods of time. The cure is to follow your nose to the source and take corrective measures. See your professional pool dealer for suggestions.

POOL EQUIPMENT ISSUES

Topic	Problem	Response
Pool Cleanliness	The Turbo Clean self cleaning system does not keep the pool bottom clean	Run the pool long enough to ensure one complete turnover of water, typically 8 hours per day for the average pool.Adjust skimmer trimmer plate to allow flow through both the skimmer and main drain. Occasionally sweeping or vacuuming may be needed if debris load is heavy.
	The pool water is less clear than normal	Clean filter.Check water chemical balance and adjust as necessary. After heavy use recirculate and super chlorinate the water.
Low Water Flow	The pool/spa pump runs, but flow is less than normal.	Clean Filter
Pumps	The pool/spa pump won’t run.	Make sure the pump circuit breaker is closed and power is available.
	The pump filter basket cover is difficult to remove.	Clean and lubricate o-ring regularly. Don’t overtighten.
	Air bubbles in pump strainer basket.	Inspect basket cover o-ring and replaced if damaged.
Valves	Water leaks out around the valve stem.	Tighten valve stem packing nut. If leak persists, replace packing.
	The valves are difficult to turn.	Some tightness is normal. Excessive tightness may be fixed by loosening stem packing nut.
Actuator	The actuator won’t rotate or rotates erratically.	Turn pump off, remove actuator clamp and lid, inspect the gear train, replace any worn or damaged gears, reassemble actuator and turn pump back on for normal operation.
	The actuator rotates slower than normal.	Make sure the pool valve upstream of the actuator is fully open.Check the skimmer basket, pump strainer basket, or filter for plugging.
Pool/Spa Heater	The heater will not start.	Make sure the pump is running prior to starting the heater Clean Filter Make sure that the flow to the heater has not been reduced by plugging of the skimmer basket, pump strainer basket, or filter Remove the heater cover panel and inspect the inside of the heater for any unusual conditions
Turbo Heads	Internal Floor Jets Pop Out Of Housing	Insert the turbo head into the housing, push down and turn ¼ turn counterclockwise to reinstall.